Haute Marne - Champagne

It was just a short step along the N19 across Haute-Marne to Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises. General de Gaulle, whose home it was from 1933 until he died in 1970, is still held in huge esteem by the French people, almost regardless of political persuasion. He is still an iconic figure - similar in a way to how the British regard Churchill, and people still flock in their thousands both to the house, La Boisserie, to the simple grave in the village churchyard (no Pantheon for him, at his request) and to the 44m-high double-barred Christian "Croix de Lorraine", that became the symbol of the Free French Army and the Resistance through the dark days of WW2.

I was allowed the rare privilege of photographing the rooms that are open to the public and as I was doing so, I was impressed both by the hushed reverence of my fellow visitors and the relative simplicity of the home of one of the political giants of Ihe twentieth century.
I subsequently visited the village churchyard - a touching experience. The village is small - about 660 inhabitants but attracting so many visitors, it boasts very fine restaurant. The Auberge de la Montagne is a one star Michelin restaurant owned by M Gerard Natali and his family. Unsurprisingly, the food is just wonderful. You can choose from the a la carte menu or from set-priced offerings up to the seven-dish Menu Decouverte at €85 (£59). I chose a mere five-course menu and remarkable value it was at €40 (£28).
After the meal, I returned to my car to have a look at what was suggested next on my itinerary - and after I had read it, I was none the wiser. What on earth was Le Moulin de la Fleuristerie?

It couldn't be a play on words because it doesn't work in French: moulin/mill/flour/flower/fleurget it? There was nothing more to do than to go to the 'Flower' mill in a little village 25km (16 miles) away across country from Colombey and find out.
I have visited many old water mills in France (the Moulin de Sauvage, during my visit to the Marne referred to earlier, for example) and once inside, the Moulin de la Fleuristerie reminded me of another fascinating example, the Taillenderie in Franche-Comte. The two mills had a lot in common. The constant roar of rushing water, the irregular thwack of belts driving grease-daubed machinery-and the almost infernal whir and clatter of seemingly incomprehensibly complicated machines made from an assortment of wood, iron and bits of string. Whilst walking round on one of the guided tours, you occasionally glimpse a crack or a hole in the uneven floorboards, which afford an unnerving view of the aqueous maelstrom beneath. I loved it!
I have unbounded admiration f o r - and deep envy of - the dedicated owners of the mill, Emmanuel Geoffroy and his Scandinavian wife Annette, for all sorts of reason. They are a couple with a mission - several missions in fact. To keep alive and expand an industry that has existed at the mill for over a hundred years, and to do it profitably; to restore the mill and its outbuildings in a proper and sensitive way; to develop other tourist-related industries centred around the mill and achieve this all in a way that is both sensitive to and sparing of the environment. (As at the Moulin de Sauvage, they generate much of their own electricity, for example.)

The industry they pursue at the mill is very simple really- if slightly unusual. They make, with all this ancient, intricate but seemingly robust machinery, accessories for the costume and millinery industries, principally flowers (hence the name) but also fruit and other miniature objects that one finds on dresses and hats. I should say that their products aren't just for any old skirt or hat. We are talking haute couture here - and the Geoffroys have an impressive client list - including Chanel, Lenotre and Noriko Endo and the like. It's often difficult finding original gifts to take back to friends or relatives in the UK when on holiday in France but M and Mme Geoffroy - both of whom speak impeccable English, can help you out. As well as selling samples of their own merchandise in their shop on the ground floor of the mill, they keep a whole range of other craft-oriented products that would make ideal presents. It's surprising what you find tucked away in the French countryside.

When it comes to hotels and restaurants, I learned many years ago that in France one should never judge a book by its cover. It's not an invariable rule, but as often as not the exterior of places to stay or eat do not reflect the quality of what you might expect inside. It's not that the hotel Le Terminus-Reine opposite the railway station in Chaumont looks particularly disagreeable from the outside, it just looks like many 'railway' hotels in mediumsized towns and, I have to be honest, as much as I have come to like the Haute-Marne department with its abundance of forests, rivers and lakes, Chaumont, its capital, is a pretty undistinguished town. This far into this article, you may have come to the conclusion that I am something of a foodie so you can probably guess what sets Le Terminus-Reine apart. Yes, the excellent restaurant!
They are lucky to have as their chef M Jean Gennevois, a local man steeped in the culinary traditions of his region, a tradition which relies very heavily on that (to outsiders) curious, mystical and sometimes mythical world of the truffle. Whilst perhaps more associated with the Perigord, Languedoc and Provence, hidden away in the wood of the Haute-Marne is an abundance of 'black gold'.

My meal at the hotel was memorable and again, all three elements were there - good food, ambience and service. Having eaten so well at Colombey at lunchtime, I declined the special menu in which every course involves truffles - even the dessert (I did actually try the truffle ice cream and contrary to what I was expecting, it was curiously delicious) and opted for more traditional fare.

Truffles are scarce and therefore expensive fetching between €300 (£208.50) and €350 (£243.29) per kilo on the often far from 'open market' but just a few shavings of this odd little growth, which looks like a wizened black lychee, imparts a powerful and indescribable taste to virtually anything. Witness the €68 (£47.26).

Early the next morning, I had a rendezvous with M Gennevois and his dog Reglisse (liquorice) to go truffle hunting in the woods at a secret location outside Chaumont. I have had the privilege of witnessing this most covert and almost sacred form of la chasse once before in Provence and a strangely compelling and almost primeval process it is too. Reglisse was constantly charging backwards and forwards with his nose pressed firmly to the ground and we knew as soon as he had found a truffle as he began pawing frantically at the ground. Jean Gennevois had to waste no time getting to him quickly otherwise he was liable to consume the rather undelicious-looking but precious black lump. It was a fascinating and, as it turned out, rewarding process, as we came back with about a dozen truffles of varying sizes. I was very appreciative of M Gennevois' generosity giving me a few examples to take home and I can report two facts. On the return journey, I had to triple wrap the truffles in airtight containers to prevent me being overcome in the car by the sweet but pungent aroma of these inoffensive looking but nevertheless lethal aromatic bombs. Secondly, returning home and shaving a few fragments into an omelette yielded the most fabulous breakfast. The remaining truffles are now in the freezer - again, triple wrapped. Although surrounded by lovely rolling wooded countryside, Chaumont itself is not the most stunning destination. However, hotels and restaurants attract a lot of business from holiday-makers and second home owners en route back to northern France or Europe. As such there are many excellent examples of both in Haute-Mame.

On my way to the next location on my itinerary, I stopped off in Chamarandes, virtually a suburb of Chaumont, at Au Rendez-Vous des Amis and enjoyed an excellent lunch in a very friendly and convivial atmosphere, amongst my fellow diners, most of whom were out for their traditional Sunday lunch with the family, The landscape of the Haute-Marne is dominated by wood and water. Of its 6,200 km total area, 2,500 are covered with gamefilled forests and woods. It has 1,700km (1,100 miles) of waterways and thousands of hectares of lakes making it a paradise for anglers and those who love all manner of water sports. The Pays de Langres is particularly rich in this respect. Its rolling hills are the source of some of France's most notable rivers, including the Meuse, Marne, Aube and Seine.

A good way to see the Haute Marne at its rural best, is by boat. There are hundreds of miles of navigable waterways in the department and the end of my afternoon was to be spent on the Canal de la Marne a la Saone (between Champagne and Burgundy), departing from Champigny-les-Langres. You can hire one of the well-known Nicols four or eight berth cruisers from here and travel up or downstream for up to a fortnight, travelling through some of the most unspoilt countryside in France, with its fair share of picturesque locks, aqueducts and tunnels. You don't need a licence to rent the boat, and you'll receive some tuition the day you arrive. Many people take or hire bikes so that after mooring up they can explore the lovely countryside that lines the towpath. Having had my appetite whetted by taking the wheel for a short spin down the canal, it has become the first choice for my holiday next year.

My final night's stay in Haute-Marne and the very last night of two trips to Champagne- Ardenne was spent in fine style at another chateau tables et chambres d'hdtes, this time at Prauthoy, south of Langres. Chateau de Prauthoy is a fine, largely eighteenth-century building set in its own five hectare grounds in the centre of the village of Prauthoy My room - more correctly, a suite - was comfortable and well furnished. As it was the beginning of October, I was glad that the room was centrally heated. The dining room was probably just as you would expect; high ceilings, double doors and rather grand, These lovely homes really do make fine places to spend a night, allowing at least a taste of what it must be like to be the master or mistress of a large country house. The village at the northern end of a long straight on the National 74 which leads directly into Dijon is also conveniently just off the Reims-Dijon A31 autoroute (junctions 5 or 6). So after a total of two weeks and several thousands of miles, I had come to the end of my journey. Before setting out on my drive home, I stopped at Langres, a town that I like and have got to know quite well, Langres has been a very important town - you sense that everywhere you walk - and it owes its importance to both its dominant topographical position on top of a 130 metrehigh limestone promontory between the Marne and Bonnelle valleys and its strategic position in medieval times on the frontier of the Kingdom of France, Lorraine and Franche- Comte. It still boasts four kilometres of intimidating and virtually impenetrable ramparts, some very fine Renaissance buildings (and later) buildings and a fine cathedral dedicated to St-Mammes.

With my expert guide from the tourist office I climbed to the top of the tower and enoyed the wonderful view over the surrounding countryside while reflecting on my springtime and autumn journeys to Champagne-Ardenne. My journey had taken me in two stages from the fortified churches of the Thierache to the medieval cathedral of Langres; from the Belgian frontier to the border with Burgundy, on what you could consider was the border of southern France. From Charleville-Mezieres, level with Luxembourg to Langres on the same latitude as Basle - to give you some idea of the sweep of the region. So much cultural variety, so much history, so many interesting people had come my way - and so many excellent meals.