Champagne-Ardenne Travel Guide

Reims Notre-Dame Cathedral

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The ancient cathedral burnt down on 6 May 1210. A year later to the day, at the instigation of Archbishop Aubry de Humbert, work began on a new cathedral built above the original foundations. The cathedral is noted for its rare unity of style, despite a period of construction that spanned over two hundred years, principally in the 13th century. The two towers, which soar to a height of almost 82 metres, were built in the first half of the 15th century. The highest point is the steeple angel, perched above the apse at a height of 87 metres. The cathedral is one of France's most important works of Gothic art, both for its architecture and statuary. No other cathedral in Europe boasts as many sculpted elements (2,303 in total).

KEY DATES:

On 24 July 1481, the roof was destroyed by fire. It took nine years to rebuild.

1744 saw the destruction of the gallery, altars and choir railings, with a view to "embellishments"; the labyrinth, in whose corners figured the first four architects, also disappeared at this time. During the French Revolution, the roof's decorative ridge of fleur-de-lis and clovers was removed because it was deemed too evocative of the Ancien Régime. The lintel's 13th century sculptures were removed and replaced with a Revolutionary inscription. In the 19th century, renovation work began and several architects (including Viollet-le-Duc) created new features for the cathedral, for the most part in the upper sections.

On 19 September 1914, the cathedral's "martyrdom" began with the German bombardments. A devastating fire soon spread from scaffolding on the north tower to the entire roof structure, with the melted lead pouring forth from the gargoyles. The cathedral was later renovated by Henri Deneux, chief architect for Historical Monuments, with the precious help of American sponsors.Work was begun in 1919 and continues to this day.

On 8 July 1962, French President Charles de Gaulle and German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer celebrated the reconciliation between their two peoples in the presence of Monseigneur Marty, Archbishop of Reims. On 22 September 1996, Pope John Paul II visited the cathedral to celebrate the 1500-year anniversary of King Clovis's baptism by Saint Remi.

THE CORONATION CATHEDRAL

Clovis' baptism, around the year 498, gave birth to the Kingdom of the Franks.This exceptional event explains the choice of Reims as the coronation city. In the present cathedral, twenty-four French monarchs were crowned, from Louis VIII to Charles X.

Chalons en Champagne

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From the foodstuff market to the Beaux-Arts and Archaeology museum

On the square of the city hall, we anticipate already in 1826, a square for the foodstuff market. A building is built in order to shelter 12 blocks, and on the floor above, classrooms. But the square is designed, in 1847, under the Alexandre Godart Administration (1786-1856), who is mayor of Châlons, and the sculpture collection are exhibited since 1883.

At the same time, the museum installed in1879 along the Godart square in the art gallery built by the architect Vagny where were situated the old jails.
The construction of the corner pavilion ended at the beginning of the 20th Century.
The monumental front on the Godart square gives the museum its current appearance.

The Lac du Der area

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Man benefited from the knowledge of how best to use and develop the Lac du Der Country’s natural resources. Over the years, he has cultivated and shaped this landscape of fields and meadows with his own hands, worked the forest, planted fruit trees, given shape to the relief and stocked the ponds with fish.

Did you know that … ?

The oak, the king of trees in this area, gave the lake its name - dervos meaning “oak” in Celtic -
1,000 hectares of trees were removed from the Der Forest in order to fill the lake with water.

The Champagne Bocage

The colourful hills and beautiful farmland provide visitors with a warm welcome, inviting them to discover a series of delightful flower-adorned villages. In June, parks and gardens, both public and private open their gates to the general public to let them enter a world of visual delight.

The Lake : the bocage revolution

Following the devastating floods of 1910, 1924 and 1955, a vast programme designed to regulate the flow of the Seine and its tributaries was put in place : the Champaubert reservoir (1938) - 450 hectares followed by the construction of the Marne reservoir, named Lac du Der, designed to accommodate the Marne floods. The Bocage Champenois, a vast watertight (Gault clay) basin, located near the Marne, provided ideal conditions for accommodating 4,800 hectares of water.
The peace of mind of the Marne valley inhabitants was to the despair of the 300 inhabitants of the bocage, as three villages were wiped off the map in order to fill the lake with water.

Half-Timbered Buildings: The Soul of The Lac Du Der Country

The combination of clayey soil and oak timber led to the development of the Der Country’s typical local architecture: half-timbered buildings. Wood (usually oak) was used for the framework of the building. The cob, made of a mixture of clay and straw and held in place on wooden boards, was deposited in between. A rich lime mortar was then used to cover the cob.
On facades exposed to bad weather (west facing facades), additional protection was needed (horizontal or vertical planks of wood, shingle, or cladding and weather-boarding.

The church-lined scenic route

This civil architecture featuring timber-framed walls can also be seen in the region’s churches thus creating a common theme unique in France. The church-lined scenic route reveals the splendour of the architecture of the villages and their churches, with the timber-framed walls of the sanctuaries and the stone churches lit up by the magnificent stained-glass windows with
their gleaming colours embodying the 16th century School of Troyes.

The lake’s enchanting secrets

The lake reveals its enchanting secrets to visitors who sail the waters on a lake steamer ride on the tourist train. Discover the local arts and traditions in the Musée du Pays du Der (Der
Museum), wine-growing in the Musée Champenois (Champagne Museum) or the work of bees in the Grange aux Abeilles (Bee Barn).

The Lake : the pleasures of water

Man has turned this outstanding site into a holiday location, designed to provide pleasure for everybody. As soon as the good weather makes its appearance, the lake turns into a sea of sails of varying colours. Keen swimmers and sun lovers come here to take advantage of the six specially-designed beaches throughout the summer. At the same time, motor boats, sea scooters and water skiers make full use of the 600 hectares specially set aside for them.

Fishing Pleasures

At the break of dawn, anglers set sail in a quest to catch pike, carp, perch, zander and roach.

The changing face of nature throughout the seasons

The warm autumn colours gradually adorn the Der landscapes heralding the arrival of the migratory birds. Coming to spend winter on our shores or migrating towards the south, birds arrive in their thousands : cranes, geese, white-tailed eagles, wild swans, tundra swans,… they are all there. In springtime, the grasslands and stretches of water become one giant

Nursery for birds

This preserved and protected natural setting provides a regular home to over 200 species of birds some of which are rare and threatened, 40 types of mammal, 45 varieties of dragonfly, 20 sorts of amphibians and more than 200 different types of vegetation.

Meeting up with cranes: 23 the emblematic bird of the Lac du Der

Large feet, long neck and plume-like tail, the crane with its two-metre wingspan is the largest wild bird visible in France. Providing them with an ideal habitat, the Lac du Der is the most important staging post for cranes in France.

Another way of discovering the Lac du Der area With the blue-tinted colours of winter, the cranes move off to the north. The arrival of spring sees visitors coming in large numbers to walk or ride along the numerous paths.

The 250 km of waymarked paths spread out in a loopshape provide excellent opportunities to admire and observe the surrounding countryside. 38 Km by bike to discover teh lake and 12 km to get to St Dizier.

Lac du Der : there’s something for everybody!!!

Climbing in trees or riding ponies; learning how to sail or catching roach; observing the grebe dive or the worker bees in the hives in the Bee Barn – whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it at the Lac du Der..

Perched on the chalky foothills of the Champagne Pouilleuse, Chavanges overlooks the splendour of the Champagne bocage, this fascinating patchwork of hedges and fields. Outstanding features include the special wood used to build the covered market and the timber-framed houses with their distinctive front doors. St. George’s church with its attractive white stone is another key place to visit.

Montier-en-Der owes its name (Monasterum in Dervo) to the monastery founded in 672 by Benedictine monks. A visit to the old abbey is recommended with its Roman nave and a gothic chancel. Today the monastery is home to a National Stud Farm, where stallions can be admired in autumn.

Saint Dizier cordially invites visitors to discover its château, today home to the Sub-Prefecture, its ramparts and gardens, its houses with their timber-framed walls (spared by the great fire of 1775), and the Noue area with its characteristic narrow alleys. St Dizier plays a prominent role in the field of specially-designed wrought ironwork thanks to Hector Guimard who chose the foundries of Saint-Dizier to have his artistic work cast.

Vitry le François, founded by François I in 1545, was 90 % destroyed during the Second World War. It was reconstructed using a draughtboard-design in the main square. At a stone’s throw from Vitry le François, discover the champagne vineyards with cellar visits and tasting (in moderation).

Stronghold of the Duke de Guise, Wassy was the scene of the start of the Wars of Religion between Catholics and Protestants. This harrowing chapter of history is recounted in the Musée Protestant de la Grange de Wassy (Wassy Protestant Museum). Wassy has preserved its 19th century station which is now the starting point of the Blaise and Der Tourist Train. Enjoy a walk around the «Leschères» lake.

Dommartin-le-Franc and its blast furnace, Sommevoire and its collection of plaster moulds and statues, Osne le Val and its amazing bronze casting demonstrations, St-Dizier and the Guimard smelting, are all places ready to provide an insight into 2,500 years of the metallurgical industry.

Cirey-sur Blaise Château : In Voltaire’s footsteps Several reminders of Voltaire’s stay here can still be seen: the sculptured door dedicated to the Arts and Sciences, the library and above all the small theatre where Voltaire rehearsed his plays. The Park provides superb views of the Vallée de la Blaise (Blaise Valley) – a moment of tranquillity.

Joinville : One of the few Renaissance gardens in France. The Grand Château has an outstanding Renaissance garden with its 365 fruit trees, its boxtrees, and the flowers which change with the seasons.

Bar le Duc Artistic and Historical Town : Discover the renaissance charm of Barle- Duc through its delightful streets and alley.

Fire... artistic cast iron!

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From prehistoric times to the Channeltunnel, the Haute-Marne has alwaysbeen an iron-producing area...thanksto the trilogy: water, the driving forcefor water wheels, iron, with the oreshowing on the very surface of theplateaux or the valley sides and wood, from our forests whichprovided the charcoal. The region has always been among theleading producers, and indeed in 1850 it was the leader.

It was in the Blaise valley that the ﬁrst ironworks were founded. It was in Cirey-sur-Blaise that Emilie du Châtelet and Voltaire,who were close to the Encyclopédistes, led a life both literaryand scientiﬁ c, researching into the nature of ﬁ re!It was in Saint-Dizier that the price of iron was ﬁ xed in thelast century. It was the Val d’Osne that saw the creation of theartistic cast iron which was to decorate the whole world... Itwas again in Saint-Dizier that Guimard cast his Art Nouveauworks.It is in this region, between Joinville, Saint-Dizier and Bar-le-Ducthat high precision parts are still cast and machined: componentsfor the Channel tunnel, for the great Arch of la Défense,for hydraulics and road making, street furniture for the wholeworld: Wallace fountains, lighting columns, benches, drinkingfountains...We invite you to discover this tradition all along a tour that willtake you to old ironworks and works of art set in parks andvillage squares... Our guides will tell you all about cast iron andits techniques both old and new, and just what it meant to thelives of thousands of people. Statues, monuments, exhibitionsand places of remembrance await you. Bonne route!

Visiting a champagne house-Veuve Clicquot

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There are 11 champagne houses that you can visit in the vicinity of Reims (info from brochure at the tourist office). Some are by appointment only and others you can show up at the appointed time. I chose to visit Veuve Clicquot, having just enjoyed their champagne at a recent holiday party. Visits to Veuve Clicquot are by appointment only. I emailed them to get a reservation on an English language tour and received a prompt reply confirming our reservation. Veuve Clicquot is located at 1, place des Droits de l'Homme, a fair distance from the center of town (around the tourist office and Notre Dame), close enough to St. Remi's to walk. We took a taxi to get there but walked back as we had ample time before our train back to Paris. See my travelogue for some more pictures and a virtual tour through the cellars.

Troyes - Museum of Modern Art

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The former Bishop's Palace (16th, 17th and 19th C.) opposite the cathedral, now houses the Museum of Modern Art. The nucleus of the museum is the Levy Collection of art between 1850 and 1950. The museum shows mainly fauvism and expressionism with works by Courbet, Bonnard, Cézanne, Derain, Degas, De Staël, Dufy, Gauguin, Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso, Rouault, Seurat Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck and Vuillard among others. There is also a collection of African art and a collection of glass artefacts. Sculptures are displayed in the garden. Dans l’ancien palais des évêques, à côté de la cathédrale, le Musée d'Art Moderne rassemble quelque 2000 œuvres représentant les grands courants picturaux du début du siècle, de Courbet (1850) à De Staël (1950) avec une prédilection pour les mouvements fauve et expressionniste. On trouve Bonnard, Cézanne, Derain, Degas, De Staël, Dufy, Gauguin, Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso, Rouault, Seurat, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck et Vuillard entre autres. Il y a encore une rare collection de verreries du célèbre Maurice Marinot (verrier troyen) et un bel ensemble d’Art africain. Dans le jardin des sculptures. Ouvert de 10h à 13h et de 14h à 18h sauf lundi et fêtes légales.

Visit Épernay

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It is a must to visit one of the Champagne-houses and take a tour through 28 kms of tunnels that are cut out the chalk-rock-underground of Epernay. Here the Champagne waits until it is 'ready'. In the winehouses they also explain about how Champagne is made (three grapes stand at the bases of this sparkling drink). Oldest of the houses is Moët & Chandon (first block on the right side of the Av. des Champagnes). We visited them and I can recommend their tour as - I think - it is very informative. Of course, at the end of the tour, there is some tasting! There is only one Champagne-region in the world and only here you find the true Champagne-wine. Unique enough, I think.

Aube fascinating churches

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The Aube department has got 85 churches or chapels classedas historical churches and other 84 are registered at the supplementarylist. Thanks to them, our area is classed at the firstplace for its 1160 stained glass windows whose 1042 date fromthe 16th century. The Aube department is also famous for themagnificent Troyes School of Sculpture from the 16th centurywhose craftsmen were the heirs to the medieval gothic tradition,such as the Saint Martha’s atelier and the Christ’sEntombment at Chaource, and works in the Italian style likeDominique Florentin’s brilliant carvings. Thanks to the effortsof the Bishopric of Troyes and its many supporters, togetherwith our villages and tourist offices, it is now possible to keepthe doors of the loveliest churches open to our visitors. Theywill have the great pleasure of admiring a part of our heritage,whose people from Aube are particularly proud.

Troyes - SAINT-PAUL CATHEDRAL

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The construction of the present cathedral began around 1200 to end in the middle of the 16th century. It is a jewel of the Gothic style. Remarkable are the doors on the west facade and the north transept with its richly decorated doorway, the "Beau Portail", and its 15th century rose window are particularly fine examples of Gothic sculpture. The flamboyant west facade was constructed at the beginning of the 16th century by the great builder of cathedrals Martin Chambiges. The two square towers are in late Gothic style; the Saint-Paul Tower was left uncompleted in 1545. Troyes has been called by the specialists the “Sacred City of Stained Glass”. The SAINT-PIERRE SAINT-PAUL CATHEDRAL with its 1,500 sq m of stained glass from the 13th to 19th centuries is a magnificent example of the art of stained glass in Troyes. The most remarkable windows are the Assumption by Jean Sourdain (1523-1524), the bay window of the Immaculate Conception by Linard Gontier (1634) and the Mystical Winepress also by Linard Gontier. It might be useful to take binoculars to see details of the upper windows and to choose a sunny day to benefit at most from the magic of the coloured glass. The church houses an interesting treasure including The Hunt of Saint-Bernard de Clairvaux, and a beautiful collection of enamels (12th and 13th c.).It should be noted that the choir grill was removed in the 19th c. and now marks the entrance to a hall in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. Open to the public: 1/10 to1/04 : 9-12h and 13-17h. Sunday 10-12h and 13-17h. Closed on Monday. 1/04 to 30/06 : 10-13h and 14-18h all days. 1/07 to 15/09 : 10-19h all days. Free.

The climate

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The Champagne-Ardenne region has a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters. The coldest month is January with a mean twenty-four hour temperature of 2.3°C, the hottest July, at 17.9°C It has on average 1,729 hours of sunshine each year compared with Paris (1,798) and Nfmes (2,669) and 604mm of rain annually with Paris at 642mm and Nfmes 762. The figures given are those for Reims.

Getting there

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One of the attractions of the Champagne- Ardenne region is that it is so easy to reach by road. With an early start from southern England you can be in Reims, Troyes, Charleville-Mezieres or Langres by lunchtime. Catching a Eurotunnel train or ferry and arriving in Calais at say 9am, Reims can be reached by 11.30am (270kms/167 miles/€16.70 peage), Troyes by 12.45pm (395kms/245 miles/€24.30 peage) and Charleville-Mezieres also by 12.45pm (357kms/211 miles/€16.70 peage via Reims).

The routes couldn't be simpler. Follow the A16 northbound towards Dunkerque, then join the A26 southbound a quick and easy route to Reims, take the A4 and then the A26 for Troyes. The shortest route to Charleville- Mezieres is via Cambrai, but the A26 to Reims and then the newly-completed A34 autoroute seems to be quicker. Langres, in the Haute- Marne department is about an hour and a half beyond Troyes on the A5 autoroute in the direction of Dijon (511 kms/317 miles/€30 peage).

Reims and Troyes can be reached easily from the Gare de I'Est in Paris, the journey to both being about ninety minutes. In the summer of 2007, the first leg of the new TGV (high speed) line to Strasbourg will be open, with journey times halved between the capital and Reims. Langres in the Haute-Marne department can be reached by rail, again from Paris Gare de I'Est; journey time is about 2h30. More information on rail travel in France from www.raileurope.co.uk

Flying and hiring a car is another option. There are regular flights from the UK by scheduled airlines to both Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Ryanair (http://www.ryanair.com/) operate a low-cost service to Paris-Beauvais. The 130km (80 mile) trip from CdG to Reims takes about ninety minutes whereas Beauvais to Reims is about 160kms (100 miles) and takes around two hours.

Haute Marne - Champagne

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It was just a short step along the N19 across Haute-Marne to Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises. General de Gaulle, whose home it was from 1933 until he died in 1970, is still held in huge esteem by the French people, almost regardless of political persuasion. He is still an iconic figure - similar in a way to how the British regard Churchill, and people still flock in their thousands both to the house, La Boisserie, to the simple grave in the village churchyard (no Pantheon for him, at his request) and to the 44m-high double-barred Christian "Croix de Lorraine", that became the symbol of the Free French Army and the Resistance through the dark days of WW2.

I was allowed the rare privilege of photographing the rooms that are open to the public and as I was doing so, I was impressed both by the hushed reverence of my fellow visitors and the relative simplicity of the home of one of the political giants of Ihe twentieth century.
I subsequently visited the village churchyard - a touching experience. The village is small - about 660 inhabitants but attracting so many visitors, it boasts very fine restaurant. The Auberge de la Montagne is a one star Michelin restaurant owned by M Gerard Natali and his family. Unsurprisingly, the food is just wonderful. You can choose from the a la carte menu or from set-priced offerings up to the seven-dish Menu Decouverte at €85 (£59). I chose a mere five-course menu and remarkable value it was at €40 (£28).
After the meal, I returned to my car to have a look at what was suggested next on my itinerary - and after I had read it, I was none the wiser. What on earth was Le Moulin de la Fleuristerie?

It couldn't be a play on words because it doesn't work in French: moulin/mill/flour/flower/fleurget it? There was nothing more to do than to go to the 'Flower' mill in a little village 25km (16 miles) away across country from Colombey and find out.
I have visited many old water mills in France (the Moulin de Sauvage, during my visit to the Marne referred to earlier, for example) and once inside, the Moulin de la Fleuristerie reminded me of another fascinating example, the Taillenderie in Franche-Comte. The two mills had a lot in common. The constant roar of rushing water, the irregular thwack of belts driving grease-daubed machinery-and the almost infernal whir and clatter of seemingly incomprehensibly complicated machines made from an assortment of wood, iron and bits of string. Whilst walking round on one of the guided tours, you occasionally glimpse a crack or a hole in the uneven floorboards, which afford an unnerving view of the aqueous maelstrom beneath. I loved it!
I have unbounded admiration f o r - and deep envy of - the dedicated owners of the mill, Emmanuel Geoffroy and his Scandinavian wife Annette, for all sorts of reason. They are a couple with a mission - several missions in fact. To keep alive and expand an industry that has existed at the mill for over a hundred years, and to do it profitably; to restore the mill and its outbuildings in a proper and sensitive way; to develop other tourist-related industries centred around the mill and achieve this all in a way that is both sensitive to and sparing of the environment. (As at the Moulin de Sauvage, they generate much of their own electricity, for example.)

The industry they pursue at the mill is very simple really- if slightly unusual. They make, with all this ancient, intricate but seemingly robust machinery, accessories for the costume and millinery industries, principally flowers (hence the name) but also fruit and other miniature objects that one finds on dresses and hats. I should say that their products aren't just for any old skirt or hat. We are talking haute couture here - and the Geoffroys have an impressive client list - including Chanel, Lenotre and Noriko Endo and the like. It's often difficult finding original gifts to take back to friends or relatives in the UK when on holiday in France but M and Mme Geoffroy - both of whom speak impeccable English, can help you out. As well as selling samples of their own merchandise in their shop on the ground floor of the mill, they keep a whole range of other craft-oriented products that would make ideal presents. It's surprising what you find tucked away in the French countryside.

When it comes to hotels and restaurants, I learned many years ago that in France one should never judge a book by its cover. It's not an invariable rule, but as often as not the exterior of places to stay or eat do not reflect the quality of what you might expect inside. It's not that the hotel Le Terminus-Reine opposite the railway station in Chaumont looks particularly disagreeable from the outside, it just looks like many 'railway' hotels in mediumsized towns and, I have to be honest, as much as I have come to like the Haute-Marne department with its abundance of forests, rivers and lakes, Chaumont, its capital, is a pretty undistinguished town. This far into this article, you may have come to the conclusion that I am something of a foodie so you can probably guess what sets Le Terminus-Reine apart. Yes, the excellent restaurant!
They are lucky to have as their chef M Jean Gennevois, a local man steeped in the culinary traditions of his region, a tradition which relies very heavily on that (to outsiders) curious, mystical and sometimes mythical world of the truffle. Whilst perhaps more associated with the Perigord, Languedoc and Provence, hidden away in the wood of the Haute-Marne is an abundance of 'black gold'.

My meal at the hotel was memorable and again, all three elements were there - good food, ambience and service. Having eaten so well at Colombey at lunchtime, I declined the special menu in which every course involves truffles - even the dessert (I did actually try the truffle ice cream and contrary to what I was expecting, it was curiously delicious) and opted for more traditional fare.

Truffles are scarce and therefore expensive fetching between €300 (£208.50) and €350 (£243.29) per kilo on the often far from 'open market' but just a few shavings of this odd little growth, which looks like a wizened black lychee, imparts a powerful and indescribable taste to virtually anything. Witness the €68 (£47.26).

Early the next morning, I had a rendezvous with M Gennevois and his dog Reglisse (liquorice) to go truffle hunting in the woods at a secret location outside Chaumont. I have had the privilege of witnessing this most covert and almost sacred form of la chasse once before in Provence and a strangely compelling and almost primeval process it is too. Reglisse was constantly charging backwards and forwards with his nose pressed firmly to the ground and we knew as soon as he had found a truffle as he began pawing frantically at the ground. Jean Gennevois had to waste no time getting to him quickly otherwise he was liable to consume the rather undelicious-looking but precious black lump. It was a fascinating and, as it turned out, rewarding process, as we came back with about a dozen truffles of varying sizes. I was very appreciative of M Gennevois' generosity giving me a few examples to take home and I can report two facts. On the return journey, I had to triple wrap the truffles in airtight containers to prevent me being overcome in the car by the sweet but pungent aroma of these inoffensive looking but nevertheless lethal aromatic bombs. Secondly, returning home and shaving a few fragments into an omelette yielded the most fabulous breakfast. The remaining truffles are now in the freezer - again, triple wrapped. Although surrounded by lovely rolling wooded countryside, Chaumont itself is not the most stunning destination. However, hotels and restaurants attract a lot of business from holiday-makers and second home owners en route back to northern France or Europe. As such there are many excellent examples of both in Haute-Mame.

On my way to the next location on my itinerary, I stopped off in Chamarandes, virtually a suburb of Chaumont, at Au Rendez-Vous des Amis and enjoyed an excellent lunch in a very friendly and convivial atmosphere, amongst my fellow diners, most of whom were out for their traditional Sunday lunch with the family, The landscape of the Haute-Marne is dominated by wood and water. Of its 6,200 km total area, 2,500 are covered with gamefilled forests and woods. It has 1,700km (1,100 miles) of waterways and thousands of hectares of lakes making it a paradise for anglers and those who love all manner of water sports. The Pays de Langres is particularly rich in this respect. Its rolling hills are the source of some of France's most notable rivers, including the Meuse, Marne, Aube and Seine.

A good way to see the Haute Marne at its rural best, is by boat. There are hundreds of miles of navigable waterways in the department and the end of my afternoon was to be spent on the Canal de la Marne a la Saone (between Champagne and Burgundy), departing from Champigny-les-Langres. You can hire one of the well-known Nicols four or eight berth cruisers from here and travel up or downstream for up to a fortnight, travelling through some of the most unspoilt countryside in France, with its fair share of picturesque locks, aqueducts and tunnels. You don't need a licence to rent the boat, and you'll receive some tuition the day you arrive. Many people take or hire bikes so that after mooring up they can explore the lovely countryside that lines the towpath. Having had my appetite whetted by taking the wheel for a short spin down the canal, it has become the first choice for my holiday next year.

My final night's stay in Haute-Marne and the very last night of two trips to Champagne- Ardenne was spent in fine style at another chateau tables et chambres d'hdtes, this time at Prauthoy, south of Langres. Chateau de Prauthoy is a fine, largely eighteenth-century building set in its own five hectare grounds in the centre of the village of Prauthoy My room - more correctly, a suite - was comfortable and well furnished. As it was the beginning of October, I was glad that the room was centrally heated. The dining room was probably just as you would expect; high ceilings, double doors and rather grand, These lovely homes really do make fine places to spend a night, allowing at least a taste of what it must be like to be the master or mistress of a large country house. The village at the northern end of a long straight on the National 74 which leads directly into Dijon is also conveniently just off the Reims-Dijon A31 autoroute (junctions 5 or 6). So after a total of two weeks and several thousands of miles, I had come to the end of my journey. Before setting out on my drive home, I stopped at Langres, a town that I like and have got to know quite well, Langres has been a very important town - you sense that everywhere you walk - and it owes its importance to both its dominant topographical position on top of a 130 metrehigh limestone promontory between the Marne and Bonnelle valleys and its strategic position in medieval times on the frontier of the Kingdom of France, Lorraine and Franche- Comte. It still boasts four kilometres of intimidating and virtually impenetrable ramparts, some very fine Renaissance buildings (and later) buildings and a fine cathedral dedicated to St-Mammes.

With my expert guide from the tourist office I climbed to the top of the tower and enoyed the wonderful view over the surrounding countryside while reflecting on my springtime and autumn journeys to Champagne-Ardenne. My journey had taken me in two stages from the fortified churches of the Thierache to the medieval cathedral of Langres; from the Belgian frontier to the border with Burgundy, on what you could consider was the border of southern France. From Charleville-Mezieres, level with Luxembourg to Langres on the same latitude as Basle - to give you some idea of the sweep of the region. So much cultural variety, so much history, so many interesting people had come my way - and so many excellent meals.

Marne

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CHAMPAGNE. A name associated with luxury, well-being and perhaps a hint of decadence. A visit to Marne can provide an invigorating tonic in lots of ways. My route from Ardennes into Marne was by way of the Argonne, a predominantly forested ridge that separates Champagne- Ardenne from the neighbouring region of Lorraine. Approaching it from Ardennes on the northern end was just like entering a tunnel. Travelling from the rather intimate and rolling countryside of Ardennes I emerged, blinking into the sweeping, chalky plains of Champagne.

You can imagine that a ridge separating Lorraine from the rest of France has great strategic importance and during the First World War it was the scene of some of the most bitter fighting. For four years the Argonne was the front line in the Meuse- Argonne Offensive and the area has many sad reminders of this terrible conflict. The Argonne however, is not all forested. There are clearings for farms and villages dotted amongst the trees and as I surveyed the scene on a bright and sunny first day of May, I was struck by the incongruity of such a lovely rural landscape and the horrors of WW1. As well as the many battles that have taken place here, one little town in the Argonne has a particular and unusual claim to fame. On the night of 21-22 June 1791 Varennes-en-Argonne was pivotal in the course of French - and indeed - European history, for it was here that Louis XVI was arrested with his family during his night-time dash for freedom after being spotted by the vigilant villagers of this little town. It is a charming and relatively unknown corner of the Marne department but the tourist authorities as well as private enterprise are now recognising the fact and there are several initiatives to develop the Argonne as a tourist destination, including Le Tulipier, a brand new hotel tucked away in the forest at Vienne-le-Chateau.

The route to my first overnight stay took me past a basilica that has what I have always considered as one of the most beautiful faqades in provincial France. The aptly-named Flamboyant-Gothic style of the west front of this church that is as large as some French cathedrals dominates the little town, 8km (5 miles) from the capital of the Marne department, Chalons-en-Champagne (mystifyingly, also still referred to - even on signposts - as Chalons-sur-Marne). It has UNESCO World Heritage Site status courtesy of its place on the route of Saint Jacques de Compostelle and is well worth a detour if you have an interest in these things and why not combine it with a lunch and or dinner and overnight stay at the excellent Aux Armes de Champagne which is just opposite. I remember enjoying one of the best - and certainly one of the longest - lunches I have ever enjoyed in France at this unexpectedly-located gastronomic haven! After a drive across the countryside south of Epernay, I arrived in a part of the Marne which is dominated by rivers - and not just any old rivers. There are a number of minor ruisseau and fleuves (streams and tributaries) that flow close to Saint-Just-Sauvage, the village also stands close to the confluence of two of France's major rivers, the Seine and the Aube. The very water mill which was to be 'home' for the next eighteen hours was itself on a small man-made diversion of the Seine - and what a lovely spot and convivial atmosphere I found there.. I should first admit I am not a fisherman. Never have been, never will be. But such was the enthusiasm of the English-speaking mill's owner Laurent Labat, the quality of the accommodation, the excellence of the food and the beauty of the location that it became one of the high spots of my springtime trip. For a British angler, this spot must be near to paradise, with its nine miles of private water, full of trout, pike, zander, perch, black bass - all just waiting to be caught. Having said that, I spent a lovely Sunday morning sharing a boat with an expert angler and I caught nothing. My expert did - which just goes to prove I suppose that there is more to this fishing business than meets the eye! The Moulin de Sauvage is managed by Laurent Labat on a very ecological basis. As well as careful management of the fish stocks for example, it generates a lot of its own electricity at the mill, selling any surplus to the French National Grid. It also offers the possibility of a variety of excursions for nonfishing partners.

I have never pretended to be a fluent French-speaker and certain words are no-go areas for me in their spoken form. I raise this now, as I was to spend my Sunday afternoon in two villages whose names I can write with consummate ease despite the further complication that one of them begins with a diphthong, but when it came to asking directions for them, got me precisely nowhere! CEuilly and Reuil, it turned out, lie next to each other on the southern slopes of the Marne valley, just west of Epernay, right in the heart of champagne country. The unpronounceable CEuilly is home to not one, or even two but three museums, which is one per 200 head of population. They are all a good place to begin to discover the World of Champagne. Two of the museums are in fact 'recreations' - one, a typical wine-grower's house, the other of a school of the region at the turn of the nineteenth/twentieth centuries. The third museum is a distillery museum In the heart of the champagne vineyards, the museums, whilst small in scale, have an enthusiastic curator and are both charming and give an insight into conditions in times
past.

In neighbouring Reuil, at a cosy chambres d'hotes on a champagne vineyard, I found something very unexpected in a cellar of a cha'mpagne producer. Not thousands of bottles but a charming and huge display of santons (miniature figures, usually found in Provence) portraying nineteenth-century champagne village life through all four seasons.
After a stroll along the banks of the Marne at Mareuil on a crisp May morning, drove into Epernay, not to one of the big champagne houses on the Avenue de Champagne but to a producer a little tucked away from the centre but nevertheless, as discovered during a tasting at the end of my unusual visit, a producer of very fine champagnes.

What was to make my visit unusual was that I needed a few minutes training by a speleologist before I visited their cellars, Rather than take the boring old lift (!), I was to descend into their cave by means of a 30 metre (100 feet!) shaft in full abseiling kit! If I look a little apprehensive in the accompanying photo - I was! (Descents by the shaft can only be made by prior appointment).

Whilst at Champagne Leclerc-Briant, bumped into the Pascal Leclerc-Briant, a descendant of the founder Lucien who began producing champagne in 1872. The present owner has opened an interesting museum in their rue Chaude Ruelle premises devoted to old tools involved in champagne production.

After a splendid lunch with lots of loca specialities at the atmospheric La Cave a Champagne in the rue Gambetta, Epernay (tel: 00 33 (0)3 26 55 50 70), I spent the afternoon driving through the champagne vineyards, an altogether agreeable experience, the sun popping in and out from behind the clouds I revisited the 'lighthouse' at Verzenay (tel: 00 33 (0)3 26 07 87 87, http://www.lepharedevezenay.com/), which sits 'in' an escarpment on the top of the Montagne de Reims, another very imaginative museum which tells the history of champagne. It has a very good audio-visual show (available with an English soundtrack) which graphically demonstrates what makes the landscape so perfect for the production of champagne. My afternoon ended at somewhere completely new to me and virtually next door to Le Phare de Verzenay - and it really caught my imagination. Les Faux de Verzy is a very curious place. I followed the signs through the trees out of the village of Verzy in my car, until the road turned into a track. I parked my car and set off through the trees on foot. After about ten minutes a sign announced that I had arrived.

Where had I arrived? In what I can only describe as a haunted wood of grotesquely deformed beech trees, with branches so contorted that they seemed to be writhing in agony. It was dull, damp, silent - and I was alone. I felt that I had stumbled into the Grimm world of Hansel and GreteL.very strange!

At the end of my springtime jaunt in the Ardennes and the Marne which had been spent staying in lovely but modestly-priced accommodation and eating in veryaffordable restaurants, I found myself in Reims, ending on a high note in two of the towns most celebrated establishments. As I said at the outset, real Champagne - that is the white sparkling wine made in the Champagne region, whatever the name on the bottle - is a prestige name associated with luxury and well-being. But, as with everything else in life, there are degrees of prestige.

Visiting smaller producers - and there was still some of that to do in the autumn leg of my visit,
perhaps you get closer to the personal passion of those involved in its production but nevertheless, I would always recommend that this special world is seen in the context of a visit to the house of one of the great names of Champagne. Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin is without doubt one such name. Most people have their favourite brand, sometimes a name unfamiliar to the rest of us, being the product of a small specialist producer, but those who know about such things generally acknowledge that Veuve Clicquot is in the top echelon of the world's best champagnes. The story of the young Widow Clicquot (nee Ponsardin) taking over her late husband's business in 1805 at the age of 27 is a remarkable one. Although the business already had a thriving export trade in Russia, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Holland and England, she greatly developed the business, which now exports 85 per cent of its production to more than 1 50 countries. The company, now owned by the Louis-Vuitton- Moet-Hennessy Group, produces a range of prestige champagnes from vines in the best areas of the region in the time-honoured tradition, which then mature in their vast network of caves deep under the streets of Reims (hewn out of the limestone by the Romans).

If there were a perfect way to end a visit to France, it would be with a wonderful meal. And thus it was, at the end of the first leg of my visit to the Champagne-Ardenne region.
There are times when we should throw caution to the wind and - almost regardless of cost - treat ourselves to something really special. This usually translates into a very special meal in France, where it doesn't usually require you to remortgage your house to eat well.

Literally just round the corner from the Widow Clicquot's domain is Chateau Les Crayeres restaurant housed in a lovely Art Nouveau building set in seven hectares of gardens on the outskirts of the town centre. You'll gather it's something rather special when I tell you the wine list runs to a handsome forty-eight pages - with fifteen of them devoted to champagnes. As I sat in the elegant fin-de-dixneuvieme- siecle conservatory with my aperitif (champagne, of course), rain was cascading down outside and I reflected on the fact that 'a good meal' is not just about food; it's about ambience and service as well. The rain added to the feeling of cosiness and the waiters struck exactly the right balance between attentiveness and discretion whilst I wrestled with the choices that the menu presented. I took the millefeuille de truffes et Saint-Jacques as an entree at €39 (rather than the fresh caviar at €115!) and the pigeonneau roti at €53. The meal may have cost £64, plus a little more for the aperitif and the glass of wine with my meal, but it was worth every penny.

Colombages and Champagnes

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The town of Troyes, and even the Aube department in which it stands, is little known to British tourists, even those who are ardent fans of France. If, like me, you love colombages (half-timbered) buildings - and there aren't many English people who don't, Troyes and the surrounding area is definitely for you. I went on a little tour of some of them with master carpenter M Jean-Louis Valentin (something of a celebrity in the Aube for his work in restoring the many beautiful half-timbered house) who pointed out little details here and there - a carved head, a coat of arms or some special feature. Aside from the splendid architecture, Troyes also boasts a beautiful gothic cathedral, abundant churches and museums and - for something completely different - more than one hundred out-oftown factory shops selling designer clothes and shoes at heavily discounted prices. Something for everyone, whether culture vulture or shopaholic.

Later in the day we visited two strikingly unusual half-timbered churches- St- Quentin's church at Mathaux and St-Julien & St-Blaise's church at Longsols, the latter of which M Valentin had a hand in restoring. On a previous visit to Aube I visited the Lac du Der Chantecoq, one of the two large lakes on the Aube-Haute-Marne and Marne border. It was a truly memorable experience, arriving at dawn and watching the cranes taking off in the pink sunrise. This time paid a visit to the neighbouring group of lakes in the Pare Regional de la Foret d'Orient.

The group of three lakes in the park, Amance, du Temple and d'Orient are used to regulate the level of the River Seine, an essential function to avoid a great deal of flooding further downstream to beyond Paris. Along with the Lac du Der Chantecoq, which regulates the River Marne, these lakes whose total area exceeds 10,000 hectares (25,000 acres) provide a huge leisure amenity, with sailing and boating, fishing, swimming, water skiing and bird-watching. I was destined for a spot of cycling. Fortunately I love cycling, so it was no hardship for me, especially as it was a lovely, sunny autumn morning when I turned up at the Base Nautique Queen Mary at Dienville, to hire my bike. Another definite plus point was that a huge network of dedicated cycle tracks, dubbed velovoie, have been created around the lakes from which all other traffic is banned making it entirely 'family-safe'. Armed'with a map I set off on a gentle jaunt around the lake. Frankly, I would have kept going had not time been against me but sadly having cycled about seven or eight kilometres, I had to do an about turn, return the cycle and carry on my way.

The Base Nautique was very well organised, with shops, a bar-brasserie, plenty of parking and a place from which to hire cycles, boats, water skis etc. A great place for a family holiday - or even that second home in France you've been promising yourself.

It was to be a day of leisure pursuits as my next port of call was a newly created holiday centre some twenty miles southeast of Dienville (see map on page final page). On the edge of the village of Bourguignons, the Domaine de Foolz (tel: 00 33 (0)3 25 29 78 86) might suffer a bit of a disadvantage in the Anglophone market with its name but it is a very imaginative new development which opened just in time for the 2004 summer season. Centred around a quality restaurant stand groups of stylish and attractive log cabins on the banks of the River Seine. There is an indoor heated swimming pool and other facilities, principally the means to discover the lovely champagne vine covered slopes by quad bike or 4x4. Special training is given for the quad bikes and you make your visits through woodland and vineyards in supervised groups.
It is not so widely known that one quarter of the world's champagne comes from the Aube department. Six thousand hectares (1 5,000 acres) of vines stretch along the Cote des Bar, between Bar-sur-Seine and Barsur- Aube. Across the fields it's not far from Bourguignons to the village of Les Riceys. This pretty village boasts three separate Appellation Controlee designations, for Champagne and two still wines, Coteau Champenois and Rose des Riceys, its famously exclusive rose, the favourite tipple of Louis XIV.

After an excellent lunch at the Domaine's restaurant, I spent a very enjoyable afternoon visiting the vineyards busy with the vendanges in a Land Rover Defender, making the journey there and back entirely off-road. Nice as it was by 4x4, next time, I'd like to go by quad bike - it looked such fun. I'm very pleased to say that it is almost impossible to escape the influence of champagne (that's 'influence' in its intellectual, rather than alcoholic sense) when you are between the Bars (-sur-Aube and -sur-Seine) and Friday was to be my 'Champagne Day'.
As someone with a keen sense of history, I find some of the historical anecdotes that one comes across in connection with champagne quite absorbing. Take Champagne Drappier in Urville for example, in and around which I was to spend most of the day. Wine has been produced on this site now for two thousand years. The present custodian of the business and the home is Michel Drappier with his father and mother still on hand to help (and children waiting in the wings to carry on the tradition), but the Drappier family history goes back to the beginning of the seventeenth century. Remy Drappier, a merchant draper (hence the name) from Reims and his son, Nicolas (1669-1724) were suppliers of wine to Louis XIV. It was in 1808 that Louis Drappier moved to Urville and began to develop the business that is still thriving today. But you have to go back to the twelfth century to discover the history of the magnificent vaulted cellars under the house. The family's heritage is linked with stories of Cistercian monks and their leader, St-Bernard of nearby Clairvaux Abbey, one of the most influential religious figures of medieval France. However, the story actually begins during the First century AD, when the Gallo-Romans first planted vines on the site.

Drappier pere, fils and even petit fils (aged seven), despite being very occupied with the vendanges which was in full swing the day I visited, were generous with their time and hospitality and at the inevitable tasting (with spittoon) I understood why the House of Drappier has such an excellent reputation with their broad range of wines, even if it is not a household name. No wonder President de Gaulle always specified Drappier champagne at his private receptions at his home at Colombey-les- Deux-Eglises, which I was to visit in a few days time.
After lunch chez Drappier, I spent what was to be a lovely afternoon in the vineyards watching, photographing and talking to the hundreds of vendangeurs spread across the Drappier vineyards. When the weather is kind the atmosphere is so convivial, with people from all over Europe and beyond gathering together for what in reality is fairly back-breaking work. Despite the rigorous nature of the work, everyone seemed so good-humoured and I spent a very happy afternoon in the company of these casual workers.

Museums

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France is to be applauded for the originality, the ingenuity, the eclecticism and all-round excellence of its museums. Whether it be devoted to cheese, cake-decorations or cars, the French are very good at preserving their local heritage and displaying it in an exciting way, so you can forget any preconceptions you may have of dreary rows of dusty display cases, The Domaine de Vendresse is a good case in point. It's the only museum I've been too where I have been nearly deafened and shaken to pieces. Eclectic Vendresse certainly is, combing the history of the birth of cast iron on this site in the most theatrical way and 'the secret universe of our rivers' in ten aquariums in which you can see about thirty species of freshwater fish. It makes a good venue for a family visit, with the added attractions of a good brasserie serving light meals, picnic area and 'hands-on' water features in the grounds. Another imaginative museum which given the turbulent history of the Ardennes was entirely appropriately sited.

The Musee Guerre et Paix.

The War and Peace Museum is housed in a large (4,500m ) and entirely new, contemporary building in the little town of Novion-Porcien. British visitors will need no introduction to the First and Second World Wars but possibly not so familiar is the humiliating defeat the French suffered at the hands of Bismarck's Prussian army in 1870/1 in which they were forced to cede all of Alsace, Belfort and parts of Lorraine to Germany-a situation that existed until the Kaiser's defeat in 1918. The museum skilfully brings to life episodes from all three conflicts that took place in Ardennes with the aid of sound and lighting effects and full-sized models with tanks, armoured cars and assorted weaponry. On the upper mezzanine level is one of the biggest collections of militaria that I have seen. Altogether, the uniforms, weapons and military equipment of all sorts dating from the nineteenth century to the present day form a very comprehensive and fascinating collection. The museum doesn't celebrate or glorify war, it merely seeks to remind us of a past that we should all remember but must hope is never repeated.

overview

2006-11-02T07:43:00.000-08:00

One of the good things about the Champagne-Ardenne region is that it's only a few hours drive from Calais so it is easily achievable in half a day if you live close to the south coast of England.

Upon arriving in the region I went to visit some of the extraordinary fortified churches of the Thierache area of the Ardennes, which stretches northwest from Charleville-Mezieres. Ardennes, Flanders and Picardy have been a battleground for the competing armies of kings and dukes on and off for over a thousand years. Even as recently as the Second and First World Wars, Ardennes has been fiercely fought over but the fortification of the churches in the Thierache dates back to three hundred years before these conflicts. Tired of being constantly raided and plundered by marauding groups of bandits and soldiers, inhabitants of some of the more remote villages, looking for a refuge for themselves and their animals, substantially altered their churches into military-style fortresses.

Another fine example of religious architecture is the stunning baroque church at Asfeld. Last time I was there it was swathed in scaffolding, this time it was almost clear of builders' paraphernalia. Although there is still some restoration to do, it is a splendid building. Asfeld, on the River Aisne, sits on the Ardennes/Marne border and is only 27km (17 miles) from Reims. Its church, dedicated to St- Didier, was built in 1683 in an Italian baroque style. The architect, Brother Francois Romain, was the designer of the Pont Royal in Paris and the colonnaded brick church, conceived in the shape of a viola da gamba, a musical instrument similar in shape to a cello, has not a single straight wall. An incongruous jewel in a rather ordinary village.

Ardennes

2006-11-01T15:02:00.000-08:00

For almost as long as I have been visiting France I have been something of an evangelist for the often forgotten northeast corner of France. Many tourists and house hunters bear right upon arriving in Calais and head for the well-known destinations in southwest France such as Charente, Dordogne and Lot. Of those who do head southeast, only a few seem to linger, merely using the area as a stopping-off point en route to the Mediterranean or destinations further south. My mission over the next 24 pages is to show this passing traffic what it has been missing.

If you follow the A26 autoroute south towards Dijon, it's not long before you leave Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Picardy behind you and enter the French administrative region of Champagne-Ardenne. In fact, in not much more than two-and-a-half hours you will find yourself in Reims, not the regional capital or even the capital of the Marne department (one of the four that goes to make up Champagne-Ardenne) but by far and away the best known town in the region, principally due to its celebrated champagne producers and its splendid gothic cathedral. But as I found out many years ago, lovely as Reims is, there is a great deal more to Reims itself, the Marne department and its three other departments in the region.The region covers 26,000 km2 of northeast France, nudging the Belgian border in the northeast and Burgundy to the southwest. Together with Marne, it includes the Haute-Marne, Ardennes and Aube departments. Wanting to provide as broad a perspective on the region as I could, I recently made two visits, one in the early spring, the other in autumn, to coincide with the vendanges (grape harvest) in the champagne vineyards.

Reims

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Reims was always present to the great events of the History of France. Since the Gallo-roman era, Durocortorum benefited of a privileged position with the crossing of the “cardo” and the “decumanus”, the great axes north-south and east-west.

Reims, together with Épernay and Ay, is one of the great centers of Champagne production. Many of the largest Champagne producing houses, referred to as les grandes marques, have their headquarters in Reims. Most are open for champagne tasting and tours by appointment only. Champagne is aged in the many chalk caves and tunnels, some originating in the Roman period, under Reims.

4 monuments UNESCO listed as World Heritage

Notre-Dame Cathedral

A masterpiece of Gothic art, the Cathedral of Our Lady was started in 1211. It was the cathedral of coronations for French kings in memory of the baptism of Clovis by Saint Remi, probably on Christmas Day 498. The left portal on the west front carries the famous Smiling Angel statue.
Tau Palace

The former Archbishop's Palace was built by Mansart and Robert de Cotte in 1690. Today, it houses the cathedral's museum with tapestries, sculptures and artifacts from the kings' coronations. The "Salle du Tau", once used as a banqueting hall after coronations, is most noteworthy.
Saint-Remi Basilica

It is the largest Romanesque pilgrimage church in northern France. It was built as a shrine to Saint Remi. The nave was consecrated in 1049 whereas the apse was built in the late 12th century and is an example of early Gothic style.
Saint-Remi Museum

The famous Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Remi, the shrine of the Holy Ampula used for French kings' coronations, is a magnificent building in the classical style. It now houses the city's Museum of History and Archeology with impressive collections from Prehistory to the Renaissance as well as a large military history section. 12th-13th centuries chapter house.

touristic routes

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Discover more about the fortified churches by following routes:

La Route des Eglises Fortifiees de Thierache, one of six Itineraires Ardennais tourist routes which also include

La Route des Fortifications (fortresses, citadelles and the Maginot line)

La Route Rimbaud-Verlaine (houses and locations particularly associated with the Ardennes' two most celebrated poets)

La Route des Legendes de Meuse et Semoy (the River Meuse valley and its famous legends)

La Route des Forets, Lacs et Abbayes (the Ardennes has forests, lakes and abbeys in abundance!)

La Route du Porcien (the rural landscape and architecture of the Ardennes)

leisure

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accommodation

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events

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partner links

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Welcome to Champagne-Ardenne

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Champagne-Ardenne is in the northeast of France, bordering Belgium. It consists of four départements: Aube, Ardennes, Haute-Marne, and Marne.
Champagne-Ardenne is a very sacred place, indeed, for the connoisseur of fine wines and beautiful countryside. The region abounds in deep forests, reflected in the clear brilliant water of lakes and streams running through schistous and lime-stone rocks, whose smooth undulating contours characterise the Champagne plain. Within this limestone strata, hundreds of miles of rock have been excavated to provide underground galleries for the housing and maturing of the wine.
You ca also discover the region's cultural heritage and its cuisine: some visit Troyes and its ancient houses, others visit Langres and its walls, and still others visit Épernay, Reims, or Colombey-les-deux-Églises.
Along 650 kilometers of waterways and lakes, you may relax in comfort and peace on board a house boat, bateaux-mouches or on a panoramic boat-drifting through a variety of scenes, observing migratory birds and animals who have made their habitat along the banks.